Buying wheels online goes wrong in one of two places: the numbers, or the freight. Here is how we handle both.
1. Tell us the car
Year, make, model and trim. Then the part most people leave out — anything that has changed since it left the factory:
- Lowering springs, coilovers or air suspension, and roughly how low it sits now
- Aftermarket brakes, especially oversized front calipers
- Existing spacers, and how thick they are
- Fender work, camber plates, or a wide-body kit
Any one of these changes the answer. A set that clears perfectly on a stock car can foul a strut or a caliper on the same car three inches lower.
2. We confirm the fit
A specialist checks the full set of numbers rather than just the diameter:
- Bolt pattern — stud count and circle diameter, which has to match exactly
- Centre bore — whether you need a hub-centric ring, and which one
- Offset — where the mounting face sits relative to the wheel centreline; this is the number that decides whether the wheel rubs
- Caliper clearance — measured against your actual brake package, not the base model
- Load rating — per-wheel and per-tire, checked against your vehicle’s gross axle weight
- Overall diameter — so the speedometer stays honest and the tire clears at full lock and full compression
You get that back as a written spec sheet. Nothing is picked or charged until you approve it.
3. It ships crated
Wheels leave our Los Angeles warehouse strapped to a pallet and crated, on insured LTL freight, with tracking. Tires ship ground. If you bought both together, we can mount and balance the assembly, transfer your TPMS sensors, and send it ready to bolt on.
Delivery is to all 48 contiguous states. Freight to a commercial address or a shop is usually faster and cheaper than residential, and we will tell you when that is worth doing.
If we get it wrong
If we specified the fitment and it does not fit, we cover return freight and correct it. That is the whole reason the approval step exists.